Today has been a very odd day! We peddled off from Traunstein finding diversions here there and everywhere but the way was beautiful nevertheless. We attempted to buy some bike stuff from what turned out to be a gardening shop, and then when we finally did find a bike shop in Bergen, they had no clue what it was that we wanted. A generous portion of  fresh, homemade Erdbeerkuchen (strawberry cake) lured us for a first rest break late morning before we continued on to Prien am Chiemsee and the wooden landing stages for a lunchtime snack!

From here it was an uphill push but the sun was shining and we had no stress. Later on we got to little picturesque village called Gasteig where we refueled, watered and started looking for some accomodation using the free wifi… This turned out to be a waste of a time but it was a well earnt rest so no grudges were borne!
We then found some great, open bike tracks following the Bodensee-Königssee cycle path. It was great cycling through broad fields where the hay was being turned, or pear orchards, or between large grassy pastures dotted with cows, but at some point before Bad Feilnbach we took a wrong turn and then rapidly decided to do a U-turn, which was remarkably unsuccessful. Joanne somehow failed at going around in a circle and crashed into me, decorating my leg in a multi-coloured mountain of a bruise. (Joanne says that it is a normal little bruise and to stop moaning, since humans heal and bikes don’t!) We never really found the way we were then intending to go and lost a lot of time trying to work out a sensible route forwards..

Whilst lost, we ended up at a dead end by a farm, with a young rather vicious dog trying to eat our shoes, bike tyres,  pannier bags and anything else it could reach. Cycling away just caused the dog to run faster and get more excitable, but staying still allowed it to try and eat what it wanted to – not at all funny when it then attempted to get its jaws around our wheels… We eventually succeeded in distracting it from each other and we escaped uninjured and with bike tyres and wheels in one piece.

We somehow then managed to reconnect to the Königssee – Bodensee Radweg and started heading up the hill. It was getting late, we had no accommodation and no ‘proper’ food beyond snacks, and when we hit another village on the hill we decided that we’d have to ask local knowledge.

We came across Niklasreuth and saw the Catholic minister leaving his house with another man and a dog, so Zara asked if there was anywhere to stay nearby. The minister then rang a Pension, who offered a little room which they never normally rented out, so we accepted gratefully and pedalled steadily up the hill and down into Wörnsmühl where Gasthaus Anian awaited us.

Upon arrival, we thought the place was run down and empty but we eventually found a door and a bell and a very friendly lady. Zara was taken to see the room and chatted away and by the time we were back, Joanne was holding court with other family workers and guests outside. All rather odd but it worked out in the end and our room is actually perfect!
Dinner was very strange indeed. We were recommended a local pub, and upon arrival ended up sitting with a group of tipsy locals who were very shocked to learn that we were cycling to Gmünd, let alone Lindau or the UK!! We discovered the name of the village we are in, Joanne found the dialect almost incomprehensible, and Zara learnt the word ‘chapeau’! The group were very kind; our drinks were paid for by one couple, and another elderly farmer dug  out bread, apples and a large lump of cured ham from his truck to give to us! It’s interesting that in Southwest Germany, they claim people in Bavaria are brusque and deliberately unhelpful, but that is exactly the opposite of both of our experiences over the years!

Anyway, we are now back in our room, checking Strava and looking through photos..


  • Distance cycled: 99.8km
  • Elevation: 1036m
  • Highest altitude: 775m
  • Moving time: 5h22m
  • Average speed: 18.5kph